Ainmhí Sheoil, the beast with the sail, is what the basking shark is called in Irish. With a bit of luck, you can see the basking sharks during the season on a boat trip to the Blasket Islands off the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula. On a good day, whales, dolphins and puffins also stop by.
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The second largest shark species on the planet can grow to over 10 metres long, although in nature only a few individuals reach this length. But the basking sharks are the bonus on this tour that you shouldn't count on. The basking shark season lasts from April to the beginning of July, but even during this time sightings are not a given. Our guide makes this clear right from the start: "They are not there for us". That's true, of course, they are here to find plankton. But there are also good reasons to go on a tour outside of the season. With a bit of luck, you can see dolphins, whales, seals, puffins and other seabirds. And if it's a bad day as far as the sea creatures are concerned, there are always the scenic islands and the anticipation of warming up in the pub after the tour. More on that below.
The excursion starts at Ventry Harbour in Ceann Tra, about five minutes by car from the coastal town of Dingle in southern Ireland. The destination is the Blasket Islands, a group of islands in the south of Ireland. In the 1950s, the last inhabitants moved to the mainland. Life as a self-sufficient person on these islands was too hard and isolated, and in bad weather they were sometimes cut off from the mainland for weeks. A bout of flu could claim a child's life.
Today, only one island keeper lives on the island, who looks after the sheep grazing on the island in the summer.
Since people left, seals have taken over some of the beaches again. They used to be an important source of protein for the islanders. Since they are no longer hunted, they can be seen on the beaches again and are not bothered by boats passing by. It's always nice to see how quickly wild animals return to their habitats if you just let them.
The journey continues to the next island. Have we landed in a scene from Game of Thrones? Or on a pirate island? No, we see the dramatic scenery of the Cathedral Rocks on the island of Inishnabro. Many seabirds such as puffins breed here.
Wild Ireland - Basking sharks ahead
After the detour to Inishnabro, it's time for the shark lovers. Hopefully. The captain saw a basking shark in the morning and is confident that we will see a few individuals. And indeed, there they are, gliding leisurely through the water and filtering plankton. Now it becomes clear why basking sharks are also called sea snakes. In fact, the dorsal and caudal fins of the basking shark look a little like a sea snake from the boat, especially when the shark swims in curves.
Into the water?
As a diver and snorkeler you would of course like to experience the basking sharks in their element. However, a dive to see the basking sharks is only for very experienced divers. Poor visibility underwater, cold water temperatures and strong currents are not for occasional and tropical divers like me. The current can sometimes be so strong that buoys are almost pulled under water. You can read more about this in the article in the magazine tauchen : The opportunity to snorkel with the basking sharks is available in Cornwall.
Basking shark (Cetorhinus maximus) Sharks have been inhabiting the seas for 300 million years. They have survived several mass extinctions and are perfectly adapted to their environment. The basking shark is the largest shark on the planet after the whale shark. It is a filter feeder, which means it filters small fish and plankton out of the water. Basking sharks follow the plankton supply throughout the year and can cover distances of several thousand kilometers. They travel alone for most of the year, but in spring and summer they form groups separated by gender. Basking sharks have a very  long gestation period, scientists assume that it lasts between one and three years. The animals also grow very slowly. These two factors make them very vulnerable to overfishing. According to the IUCN, basking sharks are an endangered species. Many questions about the basking shark are still unanswered, as is the case with many of the more than 550 shark species. Another shark species that is threatened with extinction before it can even be researched. In Dingle, the basking shark season begins in April. The locals call the basking sharks "sun sharks" because they are best seen when the sea is calm and the sun is shining. But of course they also filter plankton in bad weather. |
But it's not just basking sharks that cross our path, dolphins can be seen on most tours and with a bit of luck there are also encounters with whales, minke whales in spring and humpback whales in autumn. Minke whales smell a little strong, which is why they are also called "stinky minke".
Despite its name, the minke whale, also called the dwarf whale, reaches a size of up to 12 meters.
Back in the harbour, a swim in the sea beckons, at least for the Irish. With water and air temperatures of 9 degrees and a stiff breeze, we decide to visit the pub instead.
Practical tips Travel time: The basking shark season on the Blasket Islands lasts from April to the beginning of July and can vary slightly from year to year, as the plankton occurrence depends on the water temperature and currents, among other things. Tour operators: There are various tour operators; we chose Eco Marine Tours, a very experienced operator that focuses on basking sharks and whales. The dolphin and whale watching tour lasts four hours and starts at 1 p.m. Eco Marine Tours offer other tours where you can enter the Blasket Islands. There is also a chance of seeing marine animals on these trips. Contact and further information: https://www.marinetours.ie/ Accommodation: Dingle offers a variety of accommodation options, but there are also numerous bed and breakfasts; we stayed at the Old Irish Farmhouse, the B&B is a little outside with a view of the sea. https://www.oldirishfarmhousedingle.com/ .  Party: Like so many pubs in Ireland, the Dingle Pub offers live music. We experienced one of the best performances during our stay here, but other bands are always playing. But only here do you have the chance to see David Geaney, the five-time world champion in Irish dancing. He lives here and was our waiter that day. Definitely the waiter with the fastest feet we have ever seen. http://www.thedinglepub.com/ Sights: The Dingle Peninsula is scenically beautiful and offers many historical sights from the Stone Age, through Celtic forts to the Middle Ages. The Dingle Trail takes you around the island in twelve daily stages with daily stages of 15 to 20 kilometers. If you prefer to travel by car, you shouldn't miss the Slea Head Drive ; in good weather, great views are guaranteed. But be careful: the road is very narrow in places and crossing with excursion buses can lead to sudden adrenaline rushes. 😉? |
Ventry Harbour is the starting point of the tour.
 The Wild Moments Review How wild was it? ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Since people no longer live permanently on Blasket Island, the seals have returned; the islands and surrounding waters are undoubtedly a piece of wild Ireland. Unfortunately, you cannot snorkel with the basking sharks. How sustainable is the tour? ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Basking sharks are hunted in many places for their meat and fins and the population is considered endangered. Ecotourism is the more sustainable way to use the animals economically. The local economy is supported and there is an economic reason to protect the animals. How family-friendly is the tour? ⭐⭐⭐⭐ The tour is suitable for families with slightly older children aged 10 and over; younger children are not allowed on board. You are at sea for four hours. If the sea is too rough, the organizers will not go out. If you get seasick easily, you should take appropriate medication before departure, but this does not just apply to children. What are the chances of success? ⭐⭐⭐(⭐) The basking shark season on the Basket Islands lasts from April to the beginning of July. Nevertheless, you need a bit of luck to see the basking sharks; they do not appear on every trip. There is always a bit of marine life to see. Dolphins, seals, and depending on the season, different species of whales, for example minke whales in spring and humpback whales in autumn. And if you are unlucky with the fauna, you can simply enjoy the beautiful landscapes of the Basket Islands. How suitable is the tour for wildlife photography? ⭐⭐ Taking photos from a rocking boat with long focal lengths is not without reason rather unpopular. And of course dolphins and whales always come to the surface when you have just pointed the camera somewhere else. Hardly anyone will return with impressive wildlife shots, not least because the most photogenic side of basking sharks and whales is hidden underwater. |
For all of you who have made it this far, here are two bonus impressions from the Dingle Pub.
David Geaney, five-time Irish Dance World Champion.